A city frozen in time, Venice and Carnevale

February 25, 2015  •  Leave a Comment

 

 

Carnevale (Kar-ne'-VAHL-lay). No, not the cruise line, but the party line that descends upon the Italian city-state of Venice. That beautiful mirage, floating on the horizon,  mere feet above sea.  A flamboyant spectacle that borders on the sublime. An opportunity to leave the 21st century behind and immerse oneself in the city that keeps time at bay.

Venice, as a city, is the movie set, that all movie sets strive to emulate. It's charm and patina is genuine, refined and crafted from centuries of hard living.  From previous visits and museum trips, it's learned that maps of Venice created at the height of it's political and military power time in the 1500's the documented buildings and streets are exactly the same today as it was 500 years ago. A resident from the time of the Doge's would have no problem navigating the streets of today.  The city stands immortal, it's inhabitants pass through like leaves blowing on the wind.

For these first two weeks in February, leading up to the Lenten celebration,  Venice celebrates it's roots, as it melds the glory of the past with the modern world of today, bringing another generation a glimpse of it's living glory.

Everyday events take place across the islands, down the Calle's, and the small Campos. Piazza San Marco is ground zero for the gathering crowds to assemble.  Costumed participants regale visitors as they stroll about the Piazza dressed in period finery. Food, parades, costume judging, as well as fireworks fill the tightly packed streets and compos. A host of galas, with ticket prices well into the hundreds of Euros, fill the evening for the more well heeled. Costumes range from just simple masks made from paper machie, for 5 Euros to full period dress reproductions of finery worn by the most fashionable of Venetians of the day.

This is a re-enactors dream. You can don a powered wig, ruffled shirt and smart waist coat, knee britches and hose, and strut about like a peacock. Clicking the cobble stones with your cane and smart buckled boots strolling aimlessly, with purpose.  To be seen, to be celebrated. Time and belief stands still for an instant, those around you dressed in jeans and hoodies feeling out of place.

You become a walking spectacle, yet remain totally anonymous. Like the action characters along Hollywood Blvd, people stop you for a photograph. Poses are struck, the iphones flash and you move on to the next encounter. If you visit the city outside of Carnevale,  you gaze at wonderment at all the shops selling brightly colored masks and you wonder, what the hell are all these masks on sale for and who the hell buys them. (I'm still a South Side Chicago boy at heart). It all makes sense these two weeks of Canevale.

The explosion of color and the sublime is almost as overwhelming as is the crowds. Visiting Venice now is not for the feint of heart. The full time population is just at 60,000 people, more than that visit the city each and everyday. Up to 20 million people visit the city every year. During the day there are gondola traffic jams on the canals. A half hour gondola ride is 80 Euros, a 45 minute tour can be negotiated for about 100 Euros.

We flew into Marco Polo Airport and hopped aboard the water ferry that costs about 15 Euros for a one way ride, however it is slow and takes about and hour and a half to reach the city. There a shuttle buses that also cross over the rail bridge and drop you off at the terminal station. From there a vaporreto water bus ride gets you around, I would suggest obtaining day passes for the time you are there, and can be topped off electronically at the stops. Ticket can be purchased from the operators, but you pay an extra premium.  Private water taxis will take you from the airport to your hotel for 110 Euro.

Tourism is the main industry of Venice, much to the dismay of those hardy residents hanging on. A once vibrant city with manufacturing diversity, the current political climate has relied heavily on tourism, forsaking growth in all other areas. The draw and charm of Venice ultimately will destroy it. It will become a parity of what it once was.

But for now, it is a destination that one must put on their bucket travel list. There are accommodations for all levels of incomes, as well as food choices. Premium choice Italian wines costing  hundreds of Euros to simple pizzas on a quiet piazza.

The birthplace of Cassonova and Marco Polo. It's the muse that helped Vivaldi create his masterpiece the Four Seasons. An important International Film Festival that began in the early 20th century, this is Venice.

It is a city of romance. A city to stroll arm in arm with your loved one. At every turn marveling in a vignette that seemingly time has forgotten. A little cafe tucked away in a quiet corner glowing the evening light, tables and patrons spilling over into the little square. A glass of chianti, a bit of cheese and bread. It is a living reminder that this moment in time is to be cherished and celebrated, for we do pass through like leaves blowing on the wind.
     


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