Wool and Whisky, Edinbugh Scotland

July 28, 2015  •  Leave a Comment

The sound is unmistakable. A solitary Wailing bagpipe reverberates off gold colored sandstone buildings. It's everywhere and no-where, filling the cobblestone streets with a haunting melody that becomes the soundtrack of our visit. It is a weekend of Whisky and Wool. This is a weekend in Edinburgh Scotland. This one has an added touch, flames pouring out in tune with the music. A tourist's dream.

Cities have their signature identities . London is fish and chips, black cabs and red double- decked buses. Paris, the iconic crepe. Chicago, the much loved and discussed deep-dish pizza, or the quintessential hot dog. Belgium has its’ waffles and chocolate and Venice has carnivale masks and seafood.

Edinburgh I discovered is a city of wool and whisky. Shops extolling regional whiskys stand side by side with those displaying the seemingly never ending varieties of woolen plaids.

Flights of whisky highlighting regional variations  is standard fare. It is a tasters dream. Light flavorful single malts aged for decades in mixed barrels of sherry and port. Travel farther afield to another region and smoky aromas with a tinge of burning peat add a level of exotic to the already liquid nectar of the gods.

 

Wool, in it’s myriad of intricate plaids is as ever present as whisky. Shops selling kilts, suits, throws, mittens, and bolts of material are ever present as well. If you complain about being cold or have nothing to wear, you have kept your eyes closed pretty much the entire day. The patterns are classified as modern or ancient and the variety is staggering. The prices can be as varied. The wool might have come from Scotland, but that doesn’t mean it was created or crafted there. Prepare to pay more for items made exclusively in country as opposed to an import.

A short flight from London, Edinburgh airport is a compact single terminal, easily navigated. A short cab ride to the Royal Mile in the historic center of the city is about 16 pounds.  From there the city of approximately 600,000 is readily traversed.

The G & V Hotel, where we stayed is a sleek modern hotel in the city center, a quick walk to shops, the historic castles and a myriad of eating establishments.

The ever present tourist, hop on hop off buses cruise the major routes and attractions. The city bus system is a bargain with a day pass available for less than three pounds. The streets are cobbled worn smooth and glisten with a patina, that sheens from centuries of use. Beautiful, they also require good foot-ware to make walking less fatiguing.

Our agenda was loose, leaving plenty of room to explore and discover. The historic Edinburgh castle was one of our objectives as well as a tour of the Mary's King Close, a section of the old city that was covered with modern buildings, leaving the original streets and first floors of the historic section literally underground.

The city lies amidst a series of rolling hills dominated by two extinct volcanoes, Arthur's Seat, adding drama to the skyline. The physically fit and prepared are rewarded with a stunning half-day hiking trip overlooking the lush green countryside and the entire city nestled up to the Firth of Forth, the entryway to the North Sea.

The Royal Mile is our starting point, in the heart of the historic city. From here you can you traverse the area from the Edinburgh Castle, past St. Giles and head down to the home of royalty when they visit Scotland,  The Palace of Holyroodhouse,  across from the modern day and modern looking Scottish Parliament building. The avenue is called the Royal Mile but,  it actually is two different streets, High Street near the historic castle and Canongate at the opposite end.


There are many gardens in the area, some very formal and other little secret hideaways surrounded by high ancient brick walls. Spaces lush and serene. Perfect little escapes to sit, think and enjoy a drink or takeaway snack. Dunbars Close is one such gem, a little alley like entrance opens a world unto itself.

A hike to the top of Calton Hill,  brings several rewards. It is a collection of national monuments perched atop rounded hill with a commanding view of the city and surrounding countryside. A perfect place to watch the sunset, when it's clear, but also to view the most eclectic collection of architectural monuments gathered in the most haphazard of ways.  Situated atop the hill with no discernible design, it is quite striking in its awkwardness. The National Monument, a section of wall modeled after the Parthenon in Athens, is a memorial to those who served in the First World War. A tower, shaped like an inverted telescope, rises 30 meters into the air, to honor Admiral Nelson. An astronomical observatory is there along with a monument in the shape of a circular Roman Temple to a mathematic and philosophy instructor Dugald Stewart of local fame in the late 18th century. It is a great place to get a panoramic view of the city and the Firth of Forth, the North Sea.

Please visit the galley Edinburgh here on my site for more photos.

Edinburgh Castle is a sight to behold, stone walls, transitioning from the bedrock into a fortress that overlooks the city. Almost, as if the mountain had organically grown cut block walls thrusting its presence ever higher. Everything you would want in a castle you will find here.  Towering ramparts, canon ports with canon, cobble-stone paths and age. Display rooms brimming with the history of former kings, queens and their struggle to maintain power and glory. Crown jewels, suits of armour and weapons trace the story of this venerated structure back to the 12th century.

The oldest structure in the castle is St. Margaret’s Chapel, built in the reign of King David I between 1124 -1153 in honor of his mother who died there in 1093. A small, unassuming building, solid and squat with a bare interior, and several small stained glass windows.  The intricate carved stone archway frames a simple alter area.  Despite the steady stream of visitors through the small door, it maintains a majestic aura of a truly special place.

 

The lines to the castle can be daunting, not only through the narrow entryway up through the gates but to the ticket line as well. A quick tip, order ahead from your smart phone and pickup the tickets at several kiosks that lead up the the castle outside.

 

All this exploring creates a hunger, not only for knowledge but food too. Pubs, restaurants and places to snack abound. One particular street Victoria which houses the Grassmarket area is sure to satisfy. We stopped at the Bow Bar for a quick bite of local meat pies and whisky. A great selection of local brews and hearty meals.  We later had dinner at the Outsider as dusk was falling on the castle through it’s dining room windows.

Our final stop Sunday morning, before the flight home was the Royal Yacht Britannia, moored several miles from the city center, but an easy cab ride or bus trip. The last of the royal yachts, she was commissioned by the current queen in 1953 and was in service till her retirement in the late 1990’s.

 

The ship is a fascinating time capsule. Staterooms housing royalty and their guests are in stark contrast to the housing of the ship and her crew. Magnificent dining areas and artifacts from the Queen’s many travels are housed here. The ship is a wonderful glimpse into the world of the working sailor and the duty to Her Majesty the Queen. It takes about 90 minutes to go through the whole ship from top to bottom and is well worth the side trip from city center.


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