Beautiful Brugge

October 15, 2014  •  Leave a Comment

Chocolate, lace and beer, a trio of indulgences transcending generations and genders.  This is a weekend in Brugge. The atmosphere is almost too perfect, from the subtle patterns of the stones in appropriately worn cobble streets, to the intricate filigrees of stone, cast iron and statuary adorning the time w orn facades created by artisans long forgotten. It is akin to wandering onto a movie set/Disney theme park, only better because you know this is the real thing, the inspiration for all other modern manifestations. The center of the city has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2000, it is a living, breathing example of medieval Europe.
Settled from the pre-Romans Gaul days, it has been an important trading center between the North Sea and the capitol of the European Union, Brussels. It is the capital of the province of  West Flan
ders in the northwest section of Belgium.
The city is also known as the Venice
of the North. Canals wind their way through the sections of town offering a different glimpse to the traveler. They connect the city to the North Sea and shipping ports. Tour boats filled with tourists, ply the canals now, rain or shine, learning the fine points of the historic city. Boats are available in multiple languages and are easily boarded at strategic locations.
The narrow winding streets are not automotive friendly, although cars do compete with pedestrians, bicyclists and horse drawn wagons. Beautifully patterned paving stones wet or dry provide the most basic of canvas that the city is painted upon. A good pair of rugged walking shoes is a must. For although the streets are  beautiful a full day of walking over the rough uneven surface will tax even the hardiest of hikers.

 Brugge has it's very own soundtrack. Carriages pulled by majestic draft horses, prance about the city. A finely clipped dance, their shod hoofs add a rhythmic, clip clop to the background track. That combined with the low rumbling roar of bicycle wheels, over those same stones, and the murmur of multiple  lan guages, the air is filled with a natural symphony.
The rumble and roar is punctuated by the subtle yet ever present sound of church bells.
 A city of monuments built by man to honor and glorify the creator. Towering structures reach for the sky and  mark the passage of time with tuned carillons echoing through the canyons of Flemish brick buildings. Sunday morning, calling the faithful, they provide a pleasing soundtrack to morning coffee and waffles. The tallest being the Church of our Lady, the tallest in the city and said to one of the tallest brick structures in Europe. Also the Basilica of the Holy Blood and St. Salvator's Cathedral.
It is a cultural stop as well. Aside from the beauty of the preserved architecture, it is a city of museums of history and art, adding to the visual feast.
Masterpieces of Flemish masters
such as Jan Van Eyck and Hans Memling adorn the walls and displays of the various churches and museums such as the Groeningem useum.

After all this walking the best way to refuel the body, after the soul, is with waffles. Waffles to this city is what crepes are to Paris. From street vendors, to the multitude of cafes and restaurants, a good waffle is easy to obtain. Sweet, covered in sugar, chocolate or caramel, to a waffle covered in fresh bananas for breakfast, they are a true delight.

Then you are ready to tackle the chocolate shops. There is a purveyor of chocolate about every 50 feet in Brugge. From the fanciful sculpture of fall pumpkins and leaves and holiday favorites to the overtly bawdy sexual oriented chocolate busts and derriers in your favorite flavors. You cannot leave without consuming a bit of chocolate. Especially for the train ride home.

Brugge is accessible by train and car. We made our way from London St. Pancras station on the Eurostar fast train. In less than two hours we were in Brussels and then hopped a smaller Belgium line to Brugge that runs several times a day and in under  an hour we were heading into the heart of the city.  However, make sure you exit the station on the proper side and do not wander aimlessly away from the old city into the surrounding town by accident. My mistake, and a big one, after a rousing walk through what I though were the correct directions, but muddled by lack of signage and road construction, took us in the opposite direction. What should have only been a 20 minute 3/4 of mile walk doubled and a taxi to our destination was a welcomed relief. My usual impeccable sense of direction was clouded by the thoughts of chocolate and waffles, however I take full responsibility will refrain from gloating about not needing GPS.

For some a weekend in Brugge will suffice, the shops and streets will serve enough memories to last a lifetime. The cafes and chocolatiers, the horses and canals, will burn a indelible memory.  For others who crave more, seeking out the nooks and crannies of the city, to experience an ever widening exploration of the senses, it's definitely worth a revisit. 

For a more complete photo experience visit the Minding the Gap Gallery.


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